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I finally noticed how Dries Van Noten’s spring 2025 collection used 4 Japanese techniques (and why his departure changes everything for my wardrobe)

In the ever-evolving world of fashion, few designers have left an indelible mark quite like Dries Van Noten. As we transition into the spring season of 2025, his revolutionary approach to design continues to influence the industry’s landscape, even as he steps away from his legendary brand.

The visionary who transformed pattern and texture

Van Noten’s masterful interplay of patterns has redefined how designers approach fabric combinations. “I’ve always believed that fashion should be a dialogue between tradition and innovation,” Van Noten once remarked. “It’s about finding beauty in unexpected combinations.”

His Spring/Summer 2025 collection, marking his final bow as creative director after 38 years, exemplifies this philosophy with its genderless designs and remarkable textile innovations. The incorporation of suminagashi, a traditional Japanese marbling technique, created textures that feel both ancient and futuristic.

From Antwerp Six to global fashion icon

As a member of the influential “Antwerp Six,” Van Noten helped establish his Belgian hometown as a fashion powerhouse. His journey from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts to international acclaim showcases how regional design perspectives can transform global fashion.

“What makes Dries special is his ability to walk the line between fantasy and reality,” notes Caroline Issa, fashion editor. “He uses exquisite fabrics to elevate simple designs into something extraordinary.”

The theatrical runway revolution

Van Noten’s shows transcend mere clothing displays—they’re immersive experiences. His attention to runway environments transformed fashion presentations into multisensory exhibitions, influencing countless designers to elevate their show concepts beyond traditional formats.

  • Memorable lighting that enhances fabric textures
  • Unique location selections that complement collection themes
  • Musical scores carefully chosen to evoke specific emotions

Timeless collectibles in a fast-fashion world

In an era of disposable fashion, Van Noten created investment pieces meant to last decades. His trench coats, khaki pants, and double-breasted jackets have become collectibles that transcend seasonal trends.

This approach to creating timeless wardrobe staples has influenced many designers to reconsider the longevity of their creations. His designs are like well-crafted sentences—they communicate clearly without unnecessary embellishment.

The balance of opulence and restraint

“My goal has always been to find balance,” Van Noten explains. “Between beauty and functionality, between opulence and restraint. This tension creates designs that feel both luxurious and wearable.”

This philosophy has created a blueprint for modern designers seeking to create sophisticated yet practical fashion in today’s world.

A new chapter with Julian Klausner

As Spring 2025 marks Van Noten’s departure, Julian Klausner steps in to lead the brand. His debut Fall/Winter 2025 collection maintains the brand’s signature aesthetics while introducing fresh perspectives.

  • Continued focus on exceptional fabrics and textures
  • New interpretations of the brand’s color philosophy
  • Evolution of silhouettes for contemporary wardrobes

The lasting impact on spring fashion

As we embrace Spring 2025, Van Noten’s influence is evident in the season’s vibrant patterns and textural combinations. His legacy continues to inspire designers to experiment with unexpected color combinations and innovative fabric treatments.

Hikari Yokoyama, fashion curator, notes: “Van Noten created a visual language entirely his own—recognizable yet constantly evolving. Few designers achieve that remarkable balance.”

From runway to retail, his metallic accents and bold textures continue to influence how we approach spring dressing, proving that true innovation in fashion transcends the changing of hands at the helm of his legendary brand.