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Grandmother’s 3-hour Japanese curry: Caramelized onion magic

There’s something profoundly comforting about Japanese curry that takes me back to my first culinary journey through rural Japan. I found myself in a modest home kitchen outside Osaka, where an 82-year-old grandmother showed me how proper curry should be made – not with store-bought roux blocks, but through patient caramelization and layering of flavors. Japanese curry (カレー) may have British naval origins from the Meiji era, but Japanese grandmothers have perfected it into something entirely their own. The secret? Time and those deeply caramelized onions that form the backbone of authentic kare.

The Soul of Japanese Curry 📖

Unlike its Indian counterparts, Japanese curry embraces a particular sweetness and velvety texture that comes from properly caramelized vegetables. This isn’t a quick weeknight meal in traditional Japanese homes – it’s a Sunday afternoon project, where the aroma gradually fills the house and builds anticipation. While modern convenience foods have made curry accessible, there’s nothing quite like the depth achieved through this grandmother-approved method.

If you’ve never experienced proper homemade Japanese curry, you’re in for a revelation. While you might be familiar with simple three-ingredient dishes, Japanese curry builds complex flavors from humble components.

Essential Ingredients 🧾

For the protein and vegetables:
• 800g (1.75 lbs) bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
• 600g (21 oz) yellow onions, finely chopped
• 400g (14 oz) russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
• 300g (10.5 oz) carrots, peeled and cut into bite-sized pieces
• 30g (1 oz) fresh ginger, finely grated
• 20g (0.7 oz) garlic, minced

For the curry base:
• 24g (4-5 Tbsp) Japanese curry powder (S&B is traditional)
• 4 cups (950ml) homemade dashi or chicken stock
• 1 medium apple, peeled and grated
• 2 Tbsp (30ml) soy sauce
• 1 Tbsp (15g) tomato paste
• 2 tsp (5g) unsweetened cocoa powder
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 star anise

Chef’s Note: The apple might seem strange, but it’s crucial for authentic flavor. Japanese curry balances savory depth with subtle sweetness. If apples aren’t available, a small ripe banana works beautifully – it was actually the secret ingredient of the grandmother who taught me this recipe.

Step-by-Step Method 📝

  1. Prepare your solution: In a small bowl, dissolve 1 tsp salt and ⅛ tsp baking soda in ¼ cup water. This will help soften and caramelize the onions properly.
  2. Brown the chicken: Season chicken with salt and pepper. Heat 1 Tbsp oil in a heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Working in batches, sear chicken skin-side down until golden brown (about 5 minutes), then flip and brown 2 minutes more. Remove to a plate.
  3. Create the flavor base: In the same pot with the chicken fat, add ginger and garlic, stirring until fragrant (30 seconds). Add all onions and the baking soda solution. Stir well, cover, and reduce heat to medium-low. Steam for 10 minutes.
  4. Develop caramelization: Uncover and increase heat to medium. Cook until liquid evaporates, then continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until onions turn a deep golden brown (about 15-20 minutes). This step cannot be rushed – proper caramelization is the foundation of authentic flavor.
  5. Bloom the spices: Add curry powder and stir constantly for 1 minute until fragrant. The kitchen should fill with an intoxicating aroma.
  6. Build the curry: Gradually whisk in stock, scraping up any browned bits. Add grated apple, soy sauce, tomato paste, cocoa powder, bay leaf, and star anise.
  7. Reunite and simmer: Return chicken to pot along with potatoes and carrots. Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce heat to maintain a bare simmer. Cook uncovered for 45-60 minutes, occasionally stirring, until meat is tender and sauce has thickened.
  8. Final touches: Remove bay leaf and star anise. If a thicker texture is desired, use an immersion blender to partially blend some vegetables. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

Chef’s Secret Techniques 🤫

The distinction between mediocre and magnificent Japanese curry lies in three crucial techniques. First, proper onion caramelization requires patience—rushing this step means sacrificing depth. Second, blooming curry powder in fat awakens dormant flavor compounds. Finally, the long, gentle simmer allows the starch from potatoes to naturally thicken the sauce while flavors meld.

If you’re looking for other comforting classics, my Creamy 3-Cheese Rigatoni or Grandmother’s Coq au Vin delivers similar soul-satisfying results.

Serving & Pairing Suggestions 🍽️

Serve your curry over short-grain Japanese rice, slightly stickier than its long-grain cousins. Traditional accompaniments include fukujinzuke (sweet pickled vegetables) for brightness and contrast. For a complete experience, consider a simple cucumber salad dressed with rice vinegar.

For beverages, the sweet-savory balance of Japanese curry pairs wonderfully with beer, particularly Japanese lagers. If you prefer wine, a slightly chilled Beaujolais complements without overwhelming. And if you’re exploring Japanese cheese dishes, my Alpine Cheese Fondue makes a wonderful appetizer.

Japanese curry improves with age – make it a day ahead if possible, as the flavors will deepen overnight. Just like the perfect carbonara, sometimes simplicity and patience yield the most memorable meals. This curry isn’t just dinner; it’s a connection to generations of Japanese home cooks who understood that true comfort food takes time but rewards immeasurably. Good things come to those who simmer patiently. 🍛