I discovered a hidden paradise just 28 miles off Cornwall’s southwestern tip that feels worlds away from mainland Britain. With crystal-clear turquoise waters and white sand beaches that could rival the Caribbean, Saint Mary’s in the Isles of Scilly offers an unexpected escape without leaving UK territory. This 2.5-square-mile island might be small in size, but it delivers an outsized experience that captivated me from the moment I stepped off the ferry.
Arriving via a spectacular sea journey
The adventure begins with the journey itself. Most visitors arrive aboard the Scillonian III ferry from Penzance, a 2-hour and 45-minute voyage across open waters that serves as the perfect transition from everyday life to island time. For those seeking efficiency (or with sensitive stomachs), the 15-minute helicopter ride from Penzance offers breathtaking aerial views that rival those found in lesser-known Caribbean gems.
Hugh Town: The charming island hub
Hugh Town serves as Saint Mary’s vibrant center, with its narrow streets lined with artisan shops, cozy pubs, and seafood restaurants. Don’t miss Dibble & Grub, a delightful tapas restaurant on Porthcressa Beach where you can enjoy fresh catches while wiggling your toes in the sand.
“We’re not just selling food—we’re offering the experience of dining with your feet in the sand while watching spectacular sunsets over Porthcressa,” explains owner Martha Kellogg.
Beaches that rival tropical destinations
The island boasts several pristine beaches that seem transplanted from more exotic locales. Porthcressa and Porthmellon beaches feature powdery white sand and crystal-clear waters that sparkle in the sunlight. The unique microclimate here—warmer than mainland Britain—creates perfect conditions for swimming during summer months.
Ancient history hiding in plain sight
The Garrison, a star-shaped fortification dating back to the 16th century, offers a fascinating glimpse into Saint Mary’s strategic military importance. Walking along its walls provides panoramic views across the archipelago that rival those from purpose-built observation decks elsewhere in Europe.
Island-hopping adventures
Saint Mary’s serves as the perfect base for exploring neighboring islands. Small inter-island boats depart regularly from the quay, allowing for easy day trips to Tresco with its famous Abbey Gardens or St. Martin’s with its award-winning vineyard. These boat journeys, cutting through waters so clear you can spot seals swimming below, remind me of island-hopping in Polynesia, though with distinctly British character.
Wildlife encounters around every corner
The waters surrounding Saint Mary’s teem with marine life. Kayaking along the coastline often leads to close encounters with playful seals that curiously pop their heads above water to investigate visitors. Birdwatchers flock here for glimpses of rare species drawn to the islands’ unique position.
“There’s nowhere else in Britain where you can be paddleboarding alongside Atlantic grey seals in the morning and spotting puffins in the afternoon,” says local wildlife guide Thomas Pendergast.
Old Town’s hidden charm
A short walk from Hugh Town lies Old Town, the original settlement featuring a picturesque bay and ancient church. The churchyard contains the grave of former British Prime Minister Harold Wilson, who vacationed here regularly and called the Isles of Scilly his “heaven on earth.”
Enjoying Mediterranean-like weather
The Isles of Scilly benefit from a surprisingly mild climate that feels more akin to Spanish coastal towns than typical British weather. While not quite delivering 320 days of sunshine, Saint Mary’s enjoys considerably more bright days than the mainland, making outdoor exploration pleasant year-round.
Scenic coastal walks with dramatic views
The island features over 30 miles of walking trails, many hugging the dramatic coastline. These paths traverse varied landscapes from windswept headlands to sheltered coves, offering vistas that would make excellent settings for nature photography worthy of magazine covers.
Saint Mary’s captivates visitors with its remarkable blend of tropical-like beaches, fascinating history, and natural beauty—all with a distinctly British character. This tiny island, hovering just off England’s southwestern tip, delivers an experience that feels both foreign and familiar, making you wonder why more travelers haven’t discovered this Atlantic jewel hiding in plain sight.