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Unexplored flavors of Azerbaijan: My 7-day culinary journey through the Caucasus

In Azerbaijan, a land where East meets West, culinary experiences go far beyond the ordinary. This hidden gem of the Caucasus offers a tapestry of flavors that few travelers have truly explored. Imagine savoring a dish that’s been perfected over centuries, in a place where ancient traditions blend seamlessly with modern gastronomy. Azerbaijan’s cuisine is not just about sustenance; it’s a journey through time, culture, and unexpected delights that will leave even the most seasoned food enthusiast craving more.

The Magnum Opus of Azerbaijani Cuisine: Plov Reimagined

Plov, the crown jewel of Azerbaijani cuisine, is far more than just a rice dish. In the bustling kitchens of Baku, chefs are reinventing this classic with a twist that would make their ancestors proud. Picture a golden crust called guruch, hiding beneath it a treasure trove of flavors.

“Plov is our history on a plate. Each grain of rice tells a story of our land,” says Farid Aliyev, a renowned Baku chef.

At The Studio, a hidden culinary gem, guest chefs from various regions offer exclusive menus featuring their unique take on plov. Here, you might find yourself savoring a version infused with saffron from the Absheron Peninsula, topped with locally sourced lamb and dried fruits from the orchards of Quba.

Dolma: A Bite-Sized Adventure in Every Leaf

Dolma, those delicate parcels of stuffed grape leaves, are a testament to Azerbaijan’s culinary finesse. But for an offbeat experience, head to the mountains of Quba, where locals prepare a unique variant called yarpag dolmasi. Here, the leaves are filled not just with meat, but with a symphony of fresh herbs that grow wild in the Caucasus Mountains.

In Zeytun Restaurant, nestled in the heart of Baku’s old town, you can watch as skilled cooks deftly wrap these miniature delights. The restaurant offers a dolma masterclass, where you can try your hand at this ancient art, guided by locals who’ve inherited recipes passed down through generations.

Levengi: The Dish That Dances with Fire

On the shores of the Caspian Sea, in the city of Lankaran, levengi takes center stage. This dish, a chicken or fish stuffed with a tantalizing mixture of walnuts, onions, and sour plums, is cooked in a traditional tandoor oven. The result? A smoky, succulent masterpiece that’s worth the journey alone.

“Levengi is not just food; it’s a celebration of our connection to the sea and the land,” explains Marina Huseynova, a local food historian.

For an authentic levengi experience, venture to Nakhchivan Restaurant in Baku. Here, the chefs import their ingredients daily from Lankaran, ensuring that every bite transports you to the Caspian coast.

Qutab: The Street Food Sensation with a Gourmet Twist

Qutab, Azerbaijan’s answer to the flatbread, is undergoing a culinary renaissance. Traditionally filled with meat or greens, innovative chefs are now experimenting with unconventional ingredients. In the narrow alleys of Baku’s Icheri Sheher (Old City), you’ll find street vendors selling qutabs filled with everything from pumpkin and pomegranate to caramelized onions and goat cheese.

For a truly unique experience, visit Fesqha Restaurant, where they serve a dessert qutab filled with white chocolate and local hazelnuts, drizzled with mulberry syrup. It’s a perfect blend of tradition and innovation that encapsulates Azerbaijan’s evolving food scene.

The Dushbara Challenge: Tiny Dumplings, Big Flavors

In Baku, there’s a culinary challenge that’s not for the faint of heart: the dushbara contest. These miniature dumplings, no larger than the nail on your pinky finger, are a point of pride for Azerbaijani cooks. The challenge? To fit as many dumplings as possible into a single spoon.

At Alov Restaurant, they host monthly dushbara competitions where locals and tourists alike can try their hand at this delicate art. The winner not only gets bragging rights but also a feast of dushbara served in a rich, aromatic broth that’s been simmering for hours.

Sweet Secrets of Sheki: A Dessert Lover’s Paradise

The ancient city of Sheki, nestled in the foothills of the Greater Caucasus, is a treasure trove for those with a sweet tooth. Here, the art of making pakhlava and shekerbura has been perfected over centuries. Unlike their Middle Eastern counterparts, Sheki’s sweets have a unique twist that sets them apart.

Visit a local bakery to watch the intricate process of creating shekerbura, with its delicate dough patterns that resemble lace. The filling, a fragrant mixture of ground nuts, cardamom, and sugar, is a closely guarded secret passed down through families.

“Each pattern on a shekerbura tells a story. It’s like edible art,” says Aysel Mammadova, a third-generation baker in Sheki.

For those looking to dive deeper into Azerbaijan’s sweet traditions, consider joining a culinary tour that takes you from the bustling markets of Baku to the tranquil orchards of Sheki. It’s an experience that rivals exploring the hidden Greek islands, offering a taste of culture that’s equally rich and far less traveled.

The Kebab Revolution: From Street Corners to Gourmet Plates

Kebabs in Azerbaijan are an art form, with each region boasting its own unique style. In Baku, seek out the lula kebab, a spiced mixture of minced lamb and tail fat, grilled to perfection. For the adventurous, the khan kebab, wrapped in caul fat, offers a rich, indulgent experience that’s hard to find elsewhere.

At Dadi Restaurant, they’ve elevated the humble kebab to new heights. Here, you can sample a tasting menu that features kebabs from different regions of Azerbaijan, each paired with local wines. It’s a culinary journey that takes you from the mountains to the sea, all in one meal.

Tea Culture: The Heart of Azerbaijani Hospitality

No culinary journey in Azerbaijan is complete without diving into its rich tea culture. In every home and restaurant, tea is served with reverence and ritual. The traditional armudu glass, shaped like a pear, is said to keep the tea hot at the bottom and cool at the top, perfect for sipping.

For an immersive tea experience, head to the tea houses in Baku’s Old City. Here, you can spend hours sampling different varieties of local tea, served with an array of jams and sweets. It’s a social ritual that’s as much about the conversation as it is about the beverage.

Nakhchivan: The Culinary Frontier

For those willing to venture off the beaten path, the exclave of Nakhchivan offers a culinary experience like no other. This region, known for its mineral-rich soil and extreme continental climate, has developed unique preservation techniques that influence its cuisine.

Try the qovurma shorbasi, a hearty stew made with preserved meat, potatoes, and local plums. It’s a dish that tells the story of survival and innovation in a harsh climate. At Nakhchivan Restaurant in Baku, you can sample this and other regional specialties, bringing the flavors of this remote region to the capital.

Sustainable Gastronomy: Farm-to-Table in the Caucasus

Azerbaijan’s culinary scene is increasingly embracing sustainable practices, with many restaurants in Baku and beyond adopting a farm-to-table approach. This movement not only ensures fresher ingredients but also supports local farmers and preserves traditional agricultural practices.

Visit the Quba region, famous for its apples, to experience this firsthand. Here, you can tour orchards, pick your own fruit, and learn how these ingredients make their way into both traditional and modern Azerbaijani dishes. It’s an approach to food that resonates with the global trend towards sustainable travel, much like seeking out affordable yet enriching destinations.

Culinary Festivals: A Feast for the Senses

Time your visit to coincide with one of Azerbaijan’s vibrant food festivals for an unforgettable experience. The Grape Festival in Meysari showcases the country’s burgeoning wine industry, while the Pomegranate Festival in Goychay is a riot of color and flavor celebrating the fruit that’s deeply intertwined with Azerbaijani culture.

These festivals are not just about food; they’re a celebration of Azerbaijan’s cultural heritage, featuring music, dance, and traditional crafts. It’s an immersive experience that allows you to engage with local communities and understand the deep connection between food and identity in Azerbaijan.

As you plan your culinary adventure in Azerbaijan, remember that this is a land where every meal tells a story, every flavor has a history, and every dish is an invitation to explore. From the bustling markets of Baku to the tranquil tea houses of Sheki, Azerbaijan offers a gastronomic journey that’s as diverse as it is delicious. It’s a destination that proves you don’t need to visit charming French coastal towns or island paradises to find culinary excellence and cultural richness. In Azerbaijan, every bite is an adventure, every meal a memory in the making. So pack your appetite and your sense of curiosity – an unforgettable culinary odyssey awaits in the heart of the Caucasus.