Travel

I stumbled into Graça on a Tuesday morning when the tour buses were still circling Alfama’s cobblestones three hills away. An elderly woman was hanging laundry across a balcony painted with revolution-red carnations, and behind her, a 20-foot mural of Portugal’s 1974 Carnation Revolution stretched across four stories of peeling plaster. She saw me photographing … Lire plus

I spent $20 on a longtail boat from Phi Phi Don at sunrise, and within 15 minutes, I was standing on Bamboo Island’s powder-white sand with fewer than 30 people around me. Meanwhile, Maya Bay—just 8 kilometers south—was already preparing for its daily quota of 4,125 visitors, each paying premium prices for controlled one-hour slots … Lire plus

After documenting 900+ turtle nesting beaches across two decades from Costa Rica’s Tortuguero to Oman’s Ras al Jinz, I thought I’d witnessed every variation of hawksbill behavior. Then Cousin Island shattered that assumption during an October research visit to Seychelles’ conservation crown jewel. This 29-hectare Special Reserve operates the world’s longest-running hawksbill monitoring program, protecting … Lire plus

I arrived at Pura Luhur Uluwatu during golden hour, when most tourists cluster at the clifftop lookout points with their selfie sticks extended. But a Balinese temple guardian named Ketut pulled me aside with urgent eyes. “The foreigners come for photos,” he whispered in careful English, “but they miss what we’re actually protecting here.” What … Lire plus

France’s medieval wonderland sits quietly in Charente, waiting to be discovered. While tourists flock to Mont Saint-Michel and Carcassonne, Nanteuil-en-Vallée remains one of southwestern France’s best-kept secrets. This enchanting village, officially recognized as one of France’s “Petites Cités de Caractère” since 2016, offers a perfect blend of ancient architecture, flowing waterways, and authentic rural French … Lire plus

I’ll never forget the moment I stood on Caulín Bay’s black volcanic sand at dawn, watching the tide retreat to reveal what locals call their santuario sagrado—sacred sanctuary. As the Pacific withdrew across Chiloé Island’s eastern shore, thousands of pink flamingoes materialized from the mist alongside elegant black-necked swans, creating a convergence that exists nowhere … Lire plus

I spent years chasing overwater bungalows in the Maldives, saving thousands for that perfect turquoise-water escape. Then I discovered something that stopped me cold: a 10-acre private island in Belize with the same white sand, the same crystalline Caribbean water, and butler service for a fraction of the cost. While Maldives resorts demand $800 to … Lire plus

I’ve spent decades visiting the world’s most famous urban parks, from Central Park’s 843 acres of rolling lawns to Hyde Park’s Serpentine Lake. But standing beneath Singapore’s 160-foot solar-powered Supertrees at sunset, watching photovoltaic panels glow while generating electricity, I realized something: traditional parks are stuck in the 19th century. Most travelers drop $40 at … Lire plus

I’ve photographed 47 glacier destinations across four continents, from Patagonia’s Grey Glacier to Norway’s Svartisen. Here’s what no cruise brochure admits: Iceland’s Jökulsárlón delivers the glacial drama Alaska’s Tracy Arm promises, with 70% easier access, volcanic black sand beaches, and sapphire icebergs you can walk beside instead of viewing from distant ship decks. Tracy Arm … Lire plus

I paddled into Mosquito Bay on a moonless October night, and the water around my kayak exploded into liquid starlight. Twenty years photographing bioluminescent bays across the Caribbean had prepared me for a faint glow, maybe some sparkles if I got lucky. What I witnessed in Vieques that evening—700,000 dinoflagellates per gallon creating the brightest … Lire plus