Ko Si Chang: Thailand’s Royal Island Retreat Hiding in Plain Sight
A forgotten royal paradise just hours from Bangkok
Just 12 kilometers off Thailand’s eastern seaboard lies Ko Si Chang, an island sanctuary that once captivated Thai royalty but remains refreshingly unknown to international travelers. Unlike its famous cousins Phuket and Koh Samui, this 7-square-kilometer gem in Chonburi Province offers a rare glimpse into Thailand’s past without the tourist crowds that have transformed much of the kingdom’s coastline.
“Ko Si Chang gives visitors a chance to experience what Thai islands were like 30 years ago, before mass tourism changed everything,” says Somchai, a local boat captain who has transported visitors to the island for over two decades.
The island that hosted kings
Ko Si Chang’s most distinguishing feature is its royal heritage. King Rama V built his summer palace, Phra Chudadhut, here in the late 19th century, using the island as a strategic retreat where European dignitaries could be entertained far from Bangkok’s heat. Though the main structures were relocated to Bangkok after the French briefly occupied the island in 1893, the remaining garden terraces and pavilions still exude an air of faded grandeur.
Sacred shrines perched above turquoise waters
The island’s spiritual centerpiece is the Chao Pho Khao Yai Shrine, a Chinese-style temple complex carved dramatically into cliffsides. Pilgrims climb steep steps through cave chambers illuminated by sunlight filtering through natural openings. The reward at the summit is a panoramic vista stretching across the Gulf of Thailand – a hidden viewpoint that rivals Thailand’s more famous lookouts.
A day in the life of Ko Si Chang
Mornings on Ko Si Chang begin with fishermen hauling in their catches and monks collecting alms. The island awakens slowly, with locals zipping along narrow roads on motorbikes loaded with fresh produce destined for the small market near the ferry pier. Visitors can easily circle the entire island in a single day by rented scooter or the iconic three-wheeled samlors (tricycle taxis).
Where to escape the tropical heat
Tham Phang Beach (Collapsed Cave Beach) offers Ko Si Chang’s best swimming spot, with modest facilities including umbrellas for rent and seafood restaurants serving the day’s catch. Unlike the dramatic shores of Tasmania, these beaches won’t win beauty contests, but their authenticity compensates for what they lack in postcard perfection.
“We don’t have the white sand beaches that made other Thai islands famous, but we have something more valuable – peace and our way of life,” explains Malee, whose family has operated a beachside restaurant for three generations.
A culinary journey through Thai fishing traditions
Seafood dominates Ko Si Chang’s cuisine, with restaurants serving freshly caught crab, squid, and fish prepared in traditional central Thai style. The island’s specialty is pla thu (mackerel) grilled over coconut husks and served with nam prik (chili dipping sauce) – a simple meal that exemplifies Thailand’s devotion to extracting maximum flavor from fresh ingredients.
Where history meets natural beauty
For those seeking more cultural experiences like those found in medieval European villages, Ko Si Chang delivers with its historical sites. The Buddha’s Footprint, accessible via a hilltop trail, offers breathtaking views alongside religious significance. Meanwhile, the island’s Chinese temple complexes reflect the influence of immigrants who arrived during Thailand’s tin mining boom.
The perfect weekend escape
Ko Si Chang makes an ideal two-day getaway from Bangkok’s intensity. Most visitors arrive via a 45-minute ferry from Sri Racha on the mainland, making this one of Thailand’s most accessible islands. Basic but comfortable accommodations range from family-run guesthouses to midrange resorts, all offering significantly better value than Thailand’s more developed islands – perfect for remote workers looking for affordable getaways.
An island trapped in time
Unlike Ko Si Chang’s fortress-like counterparts in Finland, this island feels remarkably unfortified against modernity. Its protection comes instead from being overlooked – a blessing that has preserved its character while nearby destinations transformed beyond recognition. Here, time moves according to island rhythms rather than tourist demands.
Ko Si Chang remains one of Thailand’s last authentic island experiences – a place where travelers can glimpse the kingdom’s soul without filters or staged performances. For those willing to venture beyond the familiar, this quiet island with its royal history and natural beauty offers the increasingly rare gift of genuine discovery.