The Adriatic Sea harbors many treasures, but none quite like this remote Croatian island that remained closed to foreigners until 1989. Once a military base shrouded in secrecy, Vis now welcomes adventurous travelers to its pristine shores. Located roughly 50 miles off Montenegro’s coast, this island offers something increasingly rare in today’s travel landscape – authenticity untouched by mass tourism. The locals, who proudly preserve their traditions, refer to their homeland as “the Adriatic’s sleeping beauty.”
You’ll be mesmerized by the otherworldly glow of the Blue Cave
Among the island’s most spectacular natural wonders is the famous Blue Cave, a maritime marvel that transforms ordinary seawater into an ethereal spectacle. Around midday, when sunlight penetrates through an underwater opening, the entire cavern illuminates with an almost supernatural blue glow. It’s like swimming inside a sapphire – the water appears to be lit from below, creating an otherworldly atmosphere that feels straight out of a fantasy film.
The cave itself, formed through millennia of wave erosion, maintains a constant temperature that’s surprisingly cool even during the hottest summer days. During my last visit in July, the sea temperature inside hovered around 61°F while outside it was nearly 75°F – nature’s own air conditioning system!
Local fishermen tell stories of using the cave as shelter during sudden storms, describing how the blue light would dance across their boats like spirits of the sea. The experience is so unique that travelers often sit in silent awe, watching the luminous waters swirl around them.
I always tell my groups that medieval villages here feel frozen in time
Walking through the island’s stone villages feels like stepping through a portal to another century. The architecture remains remarkably preserved, with centuries-old houses built from local limestone that glows golden in the late afternoon sun. Unlike Dubrovnik’s fortress walls, these villages offer a quieter, more authentic glimpse into Dalmatian life.
Komiža, a fishing village on the western coast, features narrow winding streets where you might spot elderly women sitting outside their homes making lace – a tradition passed down through generations. The fishermen’s museum housed in a 16th-century Venetian tower displays traditional falkuša boats, unique to this island and designed specifically for the treacherous open waters between here and Italy.
In Vis Town, former military tunnels now serve as wine cellars, where locals age their vintages in the perfect, naturally cool environment. The town’s architecture reveals layers of history – Greek foundations supporting Roman walls topped with Venetian embellishments, all seamlessly integrated into everyday life.
You should definitely try the local wines grown on impossibly steep slopes
The island’s viticultural heritage dates back over 2,500 years, making it one of the oldest wine-producing regions in Europe. What makes these wines truly special is the extreme environment in which they’re grown – vineyards cling to slopes so steep you’d think cultivation would be impossible. Yet the locals have perfected techniques passed down through generations, creating distinctive varieties found nowhere else.
Vugava, an indigenous white grape, produces wines with distinctive mineral notes influenced by the sea spray that constantly mists over the vineyards. The red Plavac Mali grapes benefit from the harsh limestone soil and intense Mediterranean sun, resulting in robust wines with complex fruit flavors. During harvest season in September, the entire island smells of fermenting grapes, as families gather to continue traditions that predate even Byzantine masterpieces.
Local winemaker Ante, whose family has produced wine for seventeen generations, told me that during the island’s closed military period, their isolation actually protected these ancient grape varieties from the modernization that changed vineyards elsewhere. “Our isolation became our strength,” he explained while pouring a glass of amber-colored wine that’s produced using methods dating back to ancient Greek settlers.
The island’s relationship with the sea extends beyond its famous cave – its position made it strategically valuable throughout history, from ancient Greek sailors to British and Yugoslav naval bases. Today, that same isolation that once kept it hidden from the world now preserves its character in a rapidly changing tourism landscape, making it a true sleeping beauty of the Adriatic.